Monday, October 9, 2023

Winding Down and Heading Home

 October 2, 2023



After some consideration, we decided to skip camping near Lake Havasu because of the heat.  After one of our rare stays in a motel in Kingman, AZ, we headed to Flagstaff and a great campground we knew of just outside Sunset Crater, Bonito Campground (Coconino National Forest).  We camped for two nights and visited the trio of national monuments in the Flagstaff area just as we did in 1980.  With an elevation of 6.900 feet, we were able to enjoy the cool nights for a little while longer.




We hiked the Island Trail (Walnut Canyon National Monument) to view cliff dwellings built 
after Sunset Crater Volcano erupted more than 1,000 years ago. 
 I remember hiking this trail as a kid with my family.


Many stair steps are necessary to get down to the ruins.





We decided to wait until early evening to hike the Lava Flow Trail in Sunset Crater Volcano National Monument and returned to the van well after sunset.  Quite a magical time of day.








A beautiful sunset and, looking back to the east, a rising full moon.



Early the next morning, we drove the scenic route from Sunset Crater to Wupatki National Monument.  We stopped to listen to the quiet of the landscape and listen to the "echoes" of our memories of doing the same thing in 1980.   We arrived at the visitor center just as it opened at 9:00 and Brian helped to raise the flag.




Early morning is a great time to visit and photograph the ruins of ancient pueblos.






 





And... on to New Mexico (our third visit to the state in 15 months)



We didn't get a picture of the sign until the morning we left.  This was taken as the moon was
setting just before sunrise - our favorite time of the day.



Inscription Trail to the base of El Morro


 
watering hole at the base of the bluff



petroglyphs

Spanish explorers left their messages, too.

Another enchanting New Mexico sunset from our campsite . . .

. . . and early morning light.


One more national park site was just down the road - El Malpais



In this photo, you can see Mount Taylor, a stratovolcano, in the upper right corner.




The view of the lava fields below Sandstone Cliffs Overlook, El Malpais National Monument.


La Ventana Natural Arch, El Malpais NM



We were reluctant to leave New Mexico, but it was time to get home to Houston.  After hearing about the heat and drought that was happening back home all summer, we were pleasantly surprised to see so much green along the highways in the panhandle of Texas.  Numerous times throughout our adventure, we witnessed the power of water to conquer the land - rivers, waterfalls, glaciers, ocean tides, mountain streams - water always wins out in the end.  It might take millions of years to carve canyons and erode mountains or just one or two winter seasons to damage road surfaces due to melting permafrost and frost heaving, but water will always prevail.   We have traveled to all 50 states and 12 of 13 Canadian provinces/territories and observed a myriad of landscapes, yet I yearn to see more.  Every type of terrain has its own beauty and appeal and we saw so many of them during our four months of travel this year.  Sadly, we also experienced so many views compromised by wildfire smoke, retreating glaciers, and depleted reservoirs.   

In so many ways, this trip was a mishmash of experiences and emotions.  We finally realized our dream of driving to Alaska, made return visits to some national parks that we will likely never get back to at this stage in our lives,  and experienced memories of previous trips with our kids (and BK "before kids") washing over us.  We are definitely slowing down and cannot hike strenuous trails any longer.  So many thoughts about the past, the present, and the future are never far away.  We experienced so many "pinch me, are we really here?" moments over the past four months and tried to be mindful of how fortunate we have been and not to take any of our good fortune for granted.  In many ways, we seem to have come "full circle" linking past travels with the current ones.  The future?  God willing, we will have more "pinch me" moments ahead of us.  And, we have promised to take our middle grandchild on the same adventure we took his older brother on (see my March 2023 post) so, if all goes according to plan, we will find ourselves in New Mexico again next March.  

Our timing was good with the weather finally moderating in Houston, both in terms of temperature and precipitation.  As always, it felt fantastic to put our arms around our children and grandchildren.  Thank
you for reading this blog and "traveling" along with us.
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Brian here.  Since Kris is the writer of the blog, I think it is a good time to add my two cents.


I had no idea what to expect on this trip.  We’d been thinking and planning it for over five years, but I’ve found out in our past travels that reading what others think or watching videos of places is nothing like experiencing them in person.


We had several setbacks, but the ones on the trip were relatively minor.  We just kept plugging along, taking things as they came.


What was the best part?  That is like asking, “Which is your favorite child?”.  In a nutshell, it was honestly being able to share it with Kris (sappy, but true.).  The fact that we have the time, and are healthy enough to take on an experience like this is not taken for granted.


The fact that we are able to change plans ‘on the fly’, and can appreciate the big things AND the little things make our travels that more special.


One of the best things was stopping to see friends along the way.  The fact that we are in touch with long-time friends is special.  


You may think we are crazy to travel as much as we do, and the way we do it, but it works for us.  We’ve seen a lot of America and Canada, and hope to be able to continue our adventures.


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Summary:     18,040 miles over 119 days (our second longest trip - the one in 2015 was longer in 
                                terms of distance and duration)
                      10   U.S./Canada border crossings (including 2 visits to Hyder, AK and Point Roberts, WA)
                      7  U.S. national parks and 2 Canadian national parks
                      8  national monuments plus 5  other national park service sites
                      visited our 50th state together since 2007
                      visited two new Canadian territories so we have been to 12 of the 13 provinces/territories
                      slept in the van 110 nights
                      countless "pinch me" moments
                      incredible wildlife sightings
                      farthest north we have ever been - Arctic Circle


Monday, October 2, 2023

California Part 2 - From Ocean to Mountains

September 25, 2023



Morro Rock

Base of Morro Rock

We spent some time out here in the evening with lots of other folks.  We were fortunate to find
a campsite not far from Morro Bay and returned in the golden light of the next morning ... fewer 
people, more sea otters, and more pelicans than I have ever seen in one place before, possibly
thousands of them.


our shadows (the van, too)

sculpture of a family waiting for their loved one to return from the sea

It was captivating to watch the sea otters.  In the morning, they were snoozing.  
The evening before, they were feeding.


We walked along the base of Morro Rock until we reached the riprap of the jetty.
It seems that rearranging rocks is a thing out there.


We made a brief visit to Cannery Row on Monterey Bay before heading inland.  We visited the famous aquarium there with our kids in 1995 but really didn't have enough time to visit this trip to justify the expense. (Note: senior discount doesn't apply until age 70)

 


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bust of John Steinbeck



Our first visit to Pinnacles (formerly a national monument, then upgraded
to national park status by Congress in 2012)



seen along the Condor Gulch trail
Condors were reintroduced to Pinnacles 20 years ago and there
are about 25 free-flying birds in the park now.



This is as far as we went on the Condor Gulch Trail.  We are no longer up to hiking strenuous
trails involving great elevation changes.



We had many visitors in our campsite.  The California quail are quite amusing to watch as they 
scurry about and peck at the multitude of ants on the ground.








We also hiked the Bear Gulch Cave Trail up to a small reservoir.  The talus caves in the gulch 
 required flashlights and some crawling and contortions, but we managed.  A satisfying hike, for sure.




The sign is accurate in all respects.








After three days at Pinnacles with wonderful weather and clear, dark night skies with awesome star-gazing, it was time to head to the Sierras and the sequoias.   We camped at Sequoia National Park with our kids 28 years ago and the clearest memory I have of it was being cold during the night.  This time, we chose the Foothills campground at a lower elevation and it was great.  Of course, we had to make time for the General Sherman Tree which was saved during the 2021 fire.  Other trees in the area were not so lucky.  The fact is, sequoias need fire to open their cones to disperse seeds and are well adapted to survive fire.  However, about 20% of the planet's largest trees have been lost in the past two years by fires that are burning hotter and more intensely.  I sincerely hope my grandchildren will be able to see the largest living organism on Earth, the General Sherman Tree, someday!



It is hard to find me in this picture, but I am admiring the largest
living organism on our planet.

The mosaic represents the "footprint" of the General Sherman Tree - 36 feet in diameter



smoky skies from wildfire somewhere in Sequoia NP


Moby fit with about a foot to spare






petroglyphs - Sequoia NP

We were able to get a campsite for only two nights because all sites were booked for the weekend so we retreated to a campground in the Central Valley over the weekend.  We were able to get a site at Kings Canyon NP for one night after that.  It is adjacent to Sequoia NP, but the road connecting the two parks is quite tortuous to drive and road repairs made travel time 3 hours each way.  We paid a visit to the General Grant Tree and Grove, big stumps as well.








We walked through the "Fallen Monarch"


Brush piles ready for next month's prescribed burn in the Grant Grove






Most mature sequoias have survived many fires over hundreds of years and have
multiple burn scars like this one.


The Kings Canyon Scenic Byway through the national forest was closed, but we were able to access Hume Lake.  It was quite pretty with a nice trail around the shore.






As we were driving toward Arizona on our last day in California, we made one more stop.  I must admit I only knew a little bit about the man, but now that I know more, I realize how extraordinary and remarkable his life was.



gravesite







Seen while geocaching:

Castroville, CA